Overview of Chhomrong

Chhomrong (2,170 m) is the pivotal village on the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) route - the last significant settlement before the trail enters the Modi Khola canyon and the protected Annapurna Sanctuary. Almost every trekker bound for ABC spends at least one night in Chhomrong on both the ascent and descent; the village is the ABC route's de facto gateway and the point at which the trekking character changes from the moderate lower-valley trail to the more committed canyon approach to the Sanctuary.

Chhomrong is a Gurung village of stone-terraced houses cascading down a steep hillside above the Modi Khola - the views from the upper village terraces across the canyon to Annapurna South (7,219 m) and Hiunchuli (6,441 m) are among the finest mountain-village views on the Annapurna routes. The village has grown significantly in the past two decades to accommodate the large number of ABC trekkers but retains some of its agricultural character in the maize and millet terraces surrounding the teahouse strip.

Strategic Position on the ABC Route

Chhomrong occupies the most strategically important position on the ABC trek - it is the last point before the Sanctuary where the ACAP permit system maintains a checkpoint (the upper ACAP office, where permits are checked going into the canyon). It is also the last point where retreat from altitude illness can be accomplished quickly - trekkers above Chhomrong in the Modi Khola canyon are committed to the canyon walls and must descend the same steep path to reach the first medical consultation point (Chhomrong itself has a basic health post).

The standard ABC itinerary stops at Chhomrong twice - once on the ascent (Day 3 or 4 from Nayapul) and once on the descent (Day 7 or 8 of the return). The two nights at Chhomrong book-ending the ABC experience mean most trekkers know the village well by the end of their trek - a familiarity that makes the village's simple teahouse culture feel genuinely like a connection rather than a commercial transaction.

Mountain Views from Chhomrong

Chhomrong's upper terraces provide a direct, unobstructed view of the Annapurna South (7,219 m) south face across the Modi Khola canyon - the mountain fills the entire northern horizon 3 km horizontal distance away. The vantage is lower than Ghandruk's equivalent view but the canyon depth below Chhomrong (the Modi Khola flows approximately 800 m below the upper village) adds a sense of vertical scale that enhances the mountain's apparent height. Dawn light on Annapurna South from Chhomrong's upper terrace - the first golden light catching the summit ice field while the canyon below remains in darkness - is one of the Annapurna trail's finest free sunrise experiences.

Machhapuchhre (6,993 m) is visible to the northeast at closer range than from Ghandruk or the Poon Hill route, providing the finest pre-Sanctuary view of the Fishtail Mountain's south summit profile.

The Chhomrong Khola Stone Steps

The descent from Chhomrong to the Chhomrong Khola river crossing (approximately 400 stone steps down, then 200 steps back up to the north bank trail) is the most notorious physical feature of the ABC route - a steep, step-intensive descent and reascent that trekkers on the return journey particularly dread after 5 - 6 days of high-altitude walking. Going up on the ascent: 30 - 40 minutes and manageable. Going down on the descent: knee-testing and memorable. Trekking poles extended for the descent are strongly recommended.

Getting There

Chhomrong is reached from Ghandruk (1,940 m) in 4 - 5 hours of walking via Kimrong Khola and the Kimrong bridge crossing - a route that descends from Ghandruk to the Modi Khola level and reascends to the Chhomrong ridge. Alternatively, from Landruk (1,565 m) via a direct Modi Khola crossing route - 3 - 4 hours. From Nayapul (1,070 m) directly: 2 long days walking via Birethanti, Tikhedhunga, and Ghandruk or Jhinu Danda.

Accommodation in Chhomrong

Chhomrong has 15 - 20 teahouses concentrated on the main ridge trail above the Chhomrong Khola steps. The Himalayan Lodge (best views; mid-range; NPR 600 - 1,000/room), Chhomrong Cottage (upper village; reliable food; NPR 500 - 800/room), and Excellent View Lodge (name accurate; terace views; NPR 600 - 1,000/room) are consistently recommended. The ACAP checkpoint office (upper Chhomrong) is also the location of a basic first aid post and the best mobile phone signal point below the Sanctuary.

Practical Information

Altitude: 2,170 m (7,119 ft)
Coordinates: 28.4097°N, 83.8125°E
District: Kaski, Gandaki Province
ACAP permit check: Upper Chhomrong checkpoint (NPR 3,000 permit required)
Walking time from Ghandruk: 4 - 5 hours
Walking time to Sinuwa (next ABC stage): 2 - 3 hours
Walking time to Annapurna Base Camp: 3 more days from Chhomrong
Best season: March - May; October - November